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Fabio Sausage (ahem, Hot Italian)

2011 November 15

I never thought I’d say it, but I’m pretty much sick to death of pork. Not trichinosis sick, but ughh-god-get-it-away-from-my-nose sick.Through a long twist of fate, my household ended up with a whole pig after our wedding, filling our entire freezer and my brother in law’s entire freezer. Over the last four months, I’ve eaten more pork than probably the last 4 years combined. At this point, the smell of thawed, perfectly fine pork turns my stomach. I’m just over it, and don’t want to kill my love entirely.

Unfortunately, my husband and I haven’t managed to work our way through all of the meat, so it became apparent that we needed a solution. Trashing the meat was out of the question, and I couldn’t deal with more slow cooked roasts. Then one day it dawned on me: disguise the meat via grinding and seasoning.

We make sausage.

sausage coil

The day I decided this was one of those days when I am so glad to live in the Bay Area. I biked down to The Local Butcher after work and got hog casings in water and some fatback, which, incidentally, is fat from the back. Giggle.

empty casings with filaments

While I am lucky enough to have been gifted the ancestral KitchenAid mixer, complete with meat grinder, I didn’t have the stuffer attachment, so the next step was to figure out where to procure one. I called around to a couple of stores, and ended up getting one at a Williams-Sonoma for about $16.

Hot Italian Sausage is a family favorite, so it topped the list of varieties to try. I went rummaging around on the net for a recipe. I hit the jackpot with this collection of recipes with picture instructions. The hunt for a recipe reminded me to put Michael Ruhlman’s Charcuterie book on my wishlist. Our library doesn’t carry it, and I don’t think I’d want to return a book covered in raw meat anyway.

wrapped meat

With spicy and hot being synonyms, it wasn’t long into the process that I started referring to our product as Fabio sausage. Come on, what other hot Italians do you know?

 

Fabio Sausage

Took 2-3 hours from chopping meat to wrapping completed sausages.

Ingredients

    1200 g pork
    400 g pork fat
    28 g salt
    22 g sugar
    11 g fennel seed
    6 g coriander seed
    17 g paprika
    1 g cayenne
    9 g red pepper
    4 g black pepper
    130 ml ice water
    42 ml red wine vinegar, chilled

 

The first batch of sausage that Russell and I tackled had some failings, mainly insufficient fat and inadequate mixing. We made a second batch a week later that had casing issues, but solved the initial problems.

I started the day before grinding & stuffing, by pulling a leg shank from the freezer to the fridge for a bit of thawing. This cross section of leg had the purple USDA inspection stamp, which I thought was a nice pretty color.

leg shank

I sliced off the skin all the way around, leaving as much fat as possible. The skin went into a bag of scraps for rendering later. For the second batch, the meat had been thawed a bit longer. I preferred working with the less frozen meat.

skinning meat

The meat was easy to cut into slabs, and then half inch cubes. I cut around the bone in the middle, saving it for stock down the road. The shank yielded less meat than specified in the recipe. Inspired by my friend Jenna’s kitchen math, I pulled out a calculator and figured out the needed proportions of all the other ingredients based on the 70% quantity of meat that I had.

meat slabs

Once the meat and fat were chopped up, I put the bowl into the freezer to keep them cool. At that point I also assembled the meat grinder with the smaller plate and put it in the freezer to get it cold. All the moving parts can warm up, and warm meat won’t grind cleanly.

cubed meat & fat

With the necessary items chilling, I scaled out the seasonings, and minced the garlic. I lightly toasted the fennel and coriander seeds in a dry skillet, and set them aside to cool once they started giving off a scent.

spices

The hog casings came to me in a small tub of water. I selected one piece and measured out around three meters. After willing myself to not be squidged out, I fit one end of the casing over the end of a funnel, and turned on a slow stream of tap water to rinse out the insides.

casings funnel

After draining out the water inside, I let them sit in a clean bowl while grinding the meat. The casings I used for batch number 2 leaked quite a bit at this stage, and when being stuffed, split many, many times. Next time, leaky casings will get the boot right away.

water-filled casings

I took the cubed meat out of freezer, added the spices other than garlic, and stirred it all up by hand. This didn’t work great. Turns out cubes of frozen meat stick together and go flying unexpectedly when you try to stir them. I didn’t know what else to do at the uneven stirring beyond shrug my shoulders.

I processed the seasoned meat & fat through the KitchenAid grinder, letting the meat fall into a bowl sitting in ice-water. After the meat was ground, I added the cold water and minced garlic. In batch #2, I skipped the garlic as it got gummed up in the grinder tube while stuffing batch #1. Mixing the ground meat with the mixer attachment was far more effective than stirring by hand.

grinding meat

Now the meat was all ready to be stuffed, but for one little step: trial patties. I took small balls of the ground sausage and fried it up. YUM.

I put the meat back in fridge while I swapped out the grinder plates for the stuffer tube. The casings have to be slid onto the tube, like putting panty hose on your foot before pulling it up your leg. I had a hell of a time with it on the first batch, and a super easy time on the second batch. Either I got better, or the casings got looser. Question mark? I left three to four inches hanging off the stuffer, to tie off.

casings on stuffer

Up to this point, I worked alone, on both batches. Stuffing was very much a two person job, however. Russell did the work of feeding meat into the hopper while I guided the casings. I’m going to be honest – stuffing these sausages felt quasi scatological and wholly salacious, at the same time. Lots of jokes about “stuffing your sausage” and “handling your meat” ensued. I don’t know what goes on in your kitchen, but ours hears a buttload of dirty jokes.

filling casings

The first time we stuffed sausages, the casing didn’t split at all. It felt easy and simple. The second time, it split three or four times while stuffing, and then again six or seven times while twisting links. Casing #2, I shake my fist at you.

After no more meat would come out of the grinder, I tied off the casing and twisted it into links the length of the distance between my thumb and forefinger (about 4-5 inches). The links kept untwisting when I would twist the next one. Never really solved that other than a hack of twisting it back again.

twisting sausages

Each batch made a total of fourteen links. Two went into the fridge, and the rest got wrapped up in packs of four for the freezer. We fried up the last bits of meat stuck in the grinder and tossed them in the salad. Again, yum.

wrapped sausages

The first sausages were disappointing. The result of not thoroughly mixing the ground meat, and not using enough fat (10-1 meat to fat is a terrible ratio for sausages) meant that it was dry and less flavorful than the test patties led us to expect. Later sausages, however, did not fail to please.

cooked sausage

Serve cut into chunks and sauteed with vegetables, grilled and topped with mustard, pan-fried and served with sauerkraut. Even I won’t recommend them it with ice-cream. Unless it was a nice savory fennel ice-cream. Yum?

7 Responses Post a comment
  1. November 18, 2011

    Uhh, I am drooling on my keyboard right now. The sausages look amazing. I also have KitchenAid envy. Ahem.

    A couple questions:

    1. Do you count the pig fat you cut off the meat as part of your measured pig fat? or is it all lard you got/rendered separately?

    2. The picture is of the washed intestines — sorry, casings — sitting in the bowl mostly inflated with water, although you didn’t specifically say you need to let them soak while inflated. What do you recommend, after doing it twice?

    3. It occurs to me that could it make a difference how full you stuffed the sausages (snicker snicker) as to whether or not the casings split when you twisted them. Did you notice stuffing them more solidly on one batch or the other?

    Well done, sis. Well done indeed.

    • Alice permalink*
      November 18, 2011

      Great questions.

      1. I weighed the bits of fat that I cut off the meat with the fat, not the meat. I didn’t use rendered lard but rather unrendered fatback. With the second batch, the fatback I had purchased had gotten moldy (ewwww), so I used only fat I’d cut off the meat.

      2) The inflated intestines picture is just for fun. I did try to inflate the casings both times so that I would know that the entire length got rinsed, but I didn’t leave the casings inflated.

      3) The splitting was definitely not due to over-stuffing. I would feel the casing split as soon as the meat hit a hole, so I’m pretty sure batch #2 just had a really holey casing.

  2. Heather permalink
    November 20, 2011

    You are an artist.

  3. November 22, 2011

    Wow. That is totally an elaborate, awesome kitchen project. The sausage looks delicious! Part of me can’t believe that you still had that pig left over from July and yet, but I guess an entire pig for two people is a LOT of meat.

    • Alice permalink*
      November 24, 2011

      It’s SO MUCH meat. So much. We still have a ton. I think after a few more batches of sausage, I can be done with the meat, and then just have to make broth and render the fat scraps one more time. Oh crap, there’s also ribs.

      Making the sausage from old meat makes me want to try making it with fresh, good meat, so I can try for good results, rather than just “better than eating it plain”.

  4. January 17, 2012

    Wow, I love this. You totally make an intimidating project sound doable. We currently send our venison out to get made into sausage, maybe next year I will try my hand at this.

    • Alice permalink*
      January 18, 2012

      Thanks Kristin. I was intimidated by the project too, but once I got started, it was way easier than I had feared. Each batch I made got better too. I’d love to try venison sausage – sounds delicious.

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